Not too hard.
- Jack up the truck and remove the front wheel
- Remove the brake caliper and secure with a ziptie - never let it hang on the brake line
- Remove the 6 allen head bolts holding the hub and pull the entire assembly off
- Remove the snap ring
- Remove the two philips head screws securing the lock ring to the hub nut, and slide off the lock ring
- using a spanner wrench, icepick, or small screwdriver, use the holes on the surface of the hub nut to unscrew counterclockwise. You may need to tap with a deadblow hammer a bit to get it started.
Now the entire hub/rotor assembly is loose. Remove carefully, keeping a hand over the open end to catch the outer bearing.
Pull out the outer bearing and clean it good using clean rags/towells, and inspect its condition for pitting, etc.
Turn over the rotor so the back side is exposed. You'll see a grease seal. Using a seal puller (or screwdriver), pry the seal loose. (You should always replace these with new parts every time you do this job)
Remove the inner bearing and clean/inspect it.
Use rags to wipe out and thoroughly clean the bearing races in the hub assembly. If the grease is cooked on there, use brake cleaner or similar solvent to ensure everything is spotless. You don't want dirt particles in here, as they'll chew up the bearings.
Assuming everything is in good shape, it's time to repack the bearings. Using a good quality grease, work grease inside the the bearings. Don't be bashful here - use a lot of grease, and get dirty. Next, coat the outside of the bearings liberally with grease.
Reinstall your inner bearing, and tap in new grease seals so they're flush with the back of the hub assembly. Do this with care so you don't push them in too far, or get them cockeyed.
Ensure the spindle is nice and clean as well. Reinstall the hub assembly and push the outer bearing in with your fingers. Hold it in there with one hand and start threading on the hub nut with the other, ensuring the threaded holes that secure the lock ring are to the outside.
Tighten the hub nut finger tight and then use your spanner / Icepick / screwdriver to tighten not more than another 1/6 turn on the hub nut. Spin the hub assembly to ensure it spins with just a little resistance, but tight enough where there's zero wobble if you grab the rotor and try to work it side to side.
Fine tuning may be required on the hub nut to get the holes on the lock ring lined up so you can reinstall the two phillips head screws to secure it.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly from here. Be sure to hit the rotors with brake cleaner to remove any greasy fingerprints you may have gotten on them. Also, ensure that snap ring is seated all the way into the groove at the end of the axle shaft. If you have trouble here, sometimes you can tug on the outer CV to get a little more axle shaft there for the snap ring to grab.
After reinstalling the hub, make sure everything rotates freely.